From the Introduction
Milan. Munich. Hamburg. Paris. London. Ten years on the trains and in the streets of cities
that had been themselves for a thousand years. I wasn't reading theory. I was watching. And
listening.
It started on the trains.
The trains were full of young Europeans, and most of them were excited. There was a new flag.
There were options for the new anthem, circulating on cassette tape. Borders were coming
down. A single currency was on the way. The European Union, before Brussels was a word anyone
used in everyday speech, felt like a moral project—a way for cultures with long, separate,
difficult histories to come together and become something better.
I would sit across from them and ask. How does Italy give up the lira? How does Germany give
up the mark? Why now? Why this fast? For what? The answer was usually "for Europe." Sometimes
"for peace." Sometimes nothing at all—just blank looks. The cultures out the window—Italian,
German, French, English—were each centuries old, each obviously distinct from the others. The
idea that they could merge into something called "European" wasn't argued. It was assumed.
Somewhere in those conversations, the unease started. It didn't feel like something growing.
It felt polished. Marketed. Forced. Cultures with centuries of memory were being asked to
give up their currencies, their borders, their sense of themselves, and the case for it was
being made in the language of compassion and progress and inevitability. The polish was the
giveaway. Real culture is uneven. It doesn't speak with one voice. It doesn't have a brochure.